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Alex Txicon
Alex Txicon

Alex Txicon

Bilbao, Spain
Alex is one of the most famous expedition mountaineers in Spain. With a passion for unusual challenges, Alex´s biggest dream is to climb an 8000er in winter.

Best moments

  • My childhood, when I was learning everything.
  • The first time I climbed a mountain in the Alps. 
  • The decision to quit my job and become a professional mountaineer.


  • Carrying out activities in the wild is a privilege and makes me feel happy. 
  • Alpinism has given me a different view of the life.
  • When climbing above 7.000 metres, all my senses get sharpen.
  • Thanks to alpinism, I’m discovering many different countries and meeting many good friends.
  • We just have one Earth; it’s our duty to look after it. 


Alex has a passion for making pioneering mountain ascents in environments and conditions which take the challenge out of the ordinary, such as attempting Himalayan peaks in winter or establishing new routes on mountains in Antartica. Alex’s extraordinary tenacity and perseverance is what makes this possible.


Short Curriculum Vitae

  • Peak Communism (7.495m)

  • Karzeneskhaya Peak (7.134m)

  • Broad Peak (8.047m)

  • Makalu (8.463m)

  • Peak Lenin (7.134m)

  • Monte Scott (880m)

  • Shackelton (1.465m) - new Route

  • Wandell (2.397m) – First ascent

  • Shisha Pangma (8.027 m) - SO Face

  • Dhaulagiri (8.167m)

  • Manaslu (8.163m)

  • Gasherbrum I (8.080m) and Gasherbrum II (8.035m) – both peaks in 6 days

  • Ulamertorssuaq (1.880m) Greenland – new route

  • Shisha Pangma (8.027m)

  • Annapurna (8.091m)

  • Shisha Pangma (8.027m). NW Face

  • Laila Peak (6.096m) – First winter ascent

  • Nuptse (7.861m)

  • Lhotse (8.516m)

  • Torre Sin Nombre (6.251m). ‘Ethernal Flame’: 7b+, A2, M5 1100m in 36h

Desde la cima del Nuptse, Lhotse y rescate de Juanjo Garran en el Dhaulagiri #TxikonXtreme
Alex Txikon